A Textile Life
Hi Smites, I hope you are all well and happy, and stitching away! I am about to get on a plane to go to Sisters for Quilter's Affair - I seriously have not sat still for the best part of two months. When I get back I have yet another trip to Queensland to teach, and after that I'm in one place for five seconds! I have the feeling I may fall in a heap. Anyway, I can promise you Quilter's Affair and Sister's Outdoor Quilt Show posts in the coming two Smite weeks.
Last week we were talking about Bali, and I wanted to keep going and talk about Balinese fabrics - and no, it's not the wax relief batik you immediately have in your head when we think about "Bali" fabric. Yes, theres that too - but these interesting fabrics have a far deeper place in Balinese culture.
There are four key types of fabric in Balinese fabric tradition, and they all mean something special, and have an important place in Balinese worship and daily life. Sacred cloths must never touch the ground - they are treated with the same reverence as temple offerings. Temple statues are dressed in fabric before a ceremony can begin, awakening the spirits and inviting them to be present at the worship. Some sacred weaving processes require fasting and purification before work on the cloth can begin.
The most prominent traditional cloth is Poleng. If you have ever been to Bali you will have seen temples, statues, stone gates, the fronts of restaurants and many other things besides draped in a distinctive black and white check. Sometimes there is a little red mixed in or along the border, but its not just any old gingham - it's a very distinctive woven check.
Poleng symbolizes the Balinese philosophy of Rwa Bhineda—the balance of opposites and the duality of the cosmos (good and evil, light and dark). You will very frequently on a trip to Bali see poleng wrapped around sacred trees, shrines, and temple guardian statues to "awaken" them and house protective spirits within. It's even draped around poles at the airport.
Years ago on a Bali trip, I bought a Poleng weave sundress with red tassels, and every time I wore it in Bali all the locals smiled at me or waved, or patted my shoulder or back. I felt like a celebrity 😂 You can buy Poleng fabric and clothing made from Poleng at many markets around Bali.
The second fabric is Endek. A popular form of single ikat where the pattern is created by resist-dyeing threads before weaving, Tenun Endek is renowned for its intricate patterns and vibrant colors. Historically worn by royalty, endek is commonly worn today for daily temple visits, government uniforms, and school clothing, this fabric is often used by Balinese women as part of their traditional attire, symbolizing elegance, cultural pride, and spiritual harmony.
Another type of Balinese fabric is Geringsing. Woven exclusively in the ancient village of Tenganan, this is the only true double ikat fabric produced in Indonesia, and Tenganan is one of only three places in the world that produce a true double ikat (the others are Patan in India and Okinawa in Japan). The rare, sacred textile is made using a highly complex process of individually tying and dyeing both the warp and weft threads, which takes from two to five years for a major piece. Geringsing cloth is believed to possess magical, protective properties and is used in major rites of passage like tooth-filing ceremonies.
The cloth is dyed naturally with kemiri (yellow), sunti/mengkudu root (red), and taum/indigo (black/blue), and the colours have different significance, for example white is for purity, red for energy, black protection and yellow sacredness.
The name Geringsing translates to "no sickness" (gering = sickness, sing = no). The Bali Aga people believe the cloth wards off illness, danger, and pollution. It plays a crucial role in rites of passage, including tooth-filing ceremonies, weddings, and funerals. Common patterns feature stars, scorpions, and wayang (shadow puppet) figures that represent cosmic harmony.
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The final of the four fabrics is Songket. Balinese Songket is a luxurious, handwoven textile recognized by its shimmering metallic gold or silver threads woven over cotton or silk backgrounds using a supplementary weft technique. Historically reserved for royalty and ceremonies, it often features deep-rooted cultural motifs and can take several months to craft.
Songket is made using intricate supplementary weft weaving that creates a raised, glowing pattern. Usually woven from pure colored silk and cotton, the fabric is intricately embellished with metallic threads to create shimmer and texture. Songket is primarily used for major rites of passage like Balinese weddings and temple festivals, and frequently depicts local mythology, such as the dragon Naga Basuki representing balance and fertility.
Where can you get them in Bali?
Tenganan: A walled village in East Bali where you can see master weavers crafting the sacred Geringsing cloth on traditional backstrap looms.
Sidemen: Located at the foothills of Mount Agung, this village is renowned for producing high-quality Endek and Songket textiles.
Threads of Life: This is an excellent gallery and learning center in Ubud, with exhibits on Indonesian textiles and purchase ethically sourced, naturally dyed fabrics directly from island weavers.
Also many of the larger and markets and tourist shopping areas will have a selection of clothing, scarves and woven pieces for sale.
I hope you enjoyed our little textile whizz around Bali! See you next week from the mountains in Oregon peeps
Sarah x
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